In short
- Main areas: Bislim Ravine, Matka Canyon, Kadina Cave, Demir Kapija, Mavrovo Cave, Plocha and the Prilep boulders.
- Rock: mostly limestone, with granite boulders around Prilep.
- Grades: from 4b for a first climb to 9a+ in Mavrovo Cave, on the French scale.
- Best seasons: spring and autumn. Summer mornings and Mavrovo Cave in summer; sunny winter days in Demir Kapija and Kadina.
- Closest to Skopje: Matka (30 min), Bislim Ravine (40 min) and Kadina Cave (1 h).
Why climb in Macedonia
Macedonia is a small, mountainous country, and limestone is everywhere. Most crags are a short walk from the car, the routes are bolted, and you rarely share a wall with more than one other group.
Local climbers have opened new areas in the last few years, such as Bislim Ravine in 2018, and they keep adding routes. A climbing day here also comes with good food, monasteries and lakes close by.
The climbing areas
These are all the areas we climb at, from the closest to the furthest from Skopje. No single crag is “the” place: each one suits a different level and season.
Bislim Ravine
70+ routes, up to 9a
Limestone along the Pčinja river, opened in 2018. Family-friendly and good most of the year.
Matka Canyon
Multi-pitch up to 150 m
Limestone walls above Lake Matka, with sport routes and long classic lines.
Climbing in MatkaKadina Cave
40+ routes, 5c to 8a
Tufas and roofs in a big south-facing cave. Best from October to May.
Demir Kapija
200+ routes, up to 8c
The biggest climbing area in Macedonia: 16 sectors and long routes up to 250 m.
Climbing in Demir KapijaMavrovo Cave
About 55 routes, up to 9a+
Tufas in a cave above the Radika canyon. The hardest routes in the country, best in summer.
Plocha (Pilav Tepe)
About 80 routes, 4b to 6b
Friendly grades and lines up to 130 m, with a climbers’ hut. Great for learning.
Prilep
Hundreds of problems
Granite boulders at Kamena Baba, Dabnica, Treskavec and Markovi Kuli. Best in spring and autumn.
Lake Ohrid
About 40 routes
Desaret near Peštani, St. Nikola and Ikar Face above Elšani, with a swim after climbing.
Stenje, Lake Prespa
A few short routes
A small crag right by the lake, for a relaxed day on a Prespa trip.
Solunska Glava
About 30 routes, 200 to 900 m
Long alpine routes on the limestone of Jakupica, for experienced climbers.
Via ferrata
150 m route in Mavrovo
Clipped to a steel cable the whole way: the easiest way to go vertical.
Ice climbing
Short ice and mixed lines
Frozen waterfalls in the Radika canyon, with an instructor and ice gear.
Kozjak
Quiet, rarely visited walls
Walls around Lake Kozjak, upstream from Matka.
Which crag for which climber
- First time on rock: Matka, Bislim Ravine and Plocha, with many easy routes.
- Learning to lead: Plocha (4b to 6b) and the easier sectors of Bislim Ravine.
- Long multi-pitch routes: Demir Kapija (up to 250 m), Matka (up to 150 m) and the alpine walls of Solunska Glava.
- Hard sport climbing: Mavrovo Cave (up to 9a+), Bislim Ravine (up to 9a), Demir Kapija (up to 8c) and Kadina Cave (up to 8a).
- Bouldering: the granite of Prilep.
- A climbing holiday by a lake: Lake Ohrid and Stenje on Lake Prespa.
When to climb
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best seasons almost everywhere. October is our favourite month.
In July and August the low valleys get very hot. We start at dawn in Matka, or drive to Mavrovo Cave, which is higher, in the shade and at its best in summer.
In winter, Demir Kapija is one of the warmest places in the country, and the south-facing Kadina Cave is best from October to May. In cold winters the waterfalls in the Radika canyon freeze for ice climbing.
Wet limestone is slippery, so nobody climbs in the rain. Check the forecast and keep a spare day.
Getting to the crags
Most crags are 30 minutes to an hour and a half by car from Skopje. Only Matka is easy by city bus (line 60), and Demir Kapija has a train station in the town. For everything else you need a car.
On our climbing days we pick you up in Skopje and drive you to the crag, so you don’t need to rent a car.
Grades and gear
Grades use the French scale. Almost all sport routes are bolted, but bolt spacing and quality vary between older and newer routes, so ask locals about the route before you lead it.
If you climb on your own, bring a 70 m rope and 14 to 16 quickdraws for single-pitch routes. On multi-pitch routes in Matka and Demir Kapija plan your abseils before you start. Wear a helmet in the gorges, where rockfall is possible.
On a guided day with us all the gear is included: harness, climbing shoes, helmet, rope and quickdraws.
Climbing with a guide
Our licensed climbing instructors climb at every crag in this guide. Beginners climb on top rope, so the rope always runs above them, and the instructor checks every knot and buckle.
We also run courses for people who want to climb on their own, and guided days for experienced climbers who want the best routes or a local climbing partner.
Rest days
Paddle to Vrelo Cave in Matka, hike to a mountain lake, ride a mountain bike, or visit the wineries of the Tikveš region near Demir Kapija. Lake Ohrid is a good place to end the trip.
Questions before you book
Do I need experience to climb in Macedonia?
No. With an instructor you start on easy top-rope routes on your first day. Matka, Bislim Ravine and Plocha have many easy routes.
What is the best crag near Skopje?
Matka Canyon is the closest, about 30 minutes away. Bislim Ravine, about 40 minutes away, has more than 70 routes for every level and is family-friendly.
When is the best time to climb in North Macedonia?
Spring and autumn. Summer works early in the morning and in Mavrovo Cave; winter works on sunny days in Demir Kapija and Kadina Cave.
How hard are the routes?
From 4b to 9a+ on the French scale. The hardest routes are in Mavrovo Cave and Bislim Ravine; Plocha and Matka have plenty of easy ones.
Is climbing in Macedonia safe?
Most sport routes are bolted, but older routes and long multi-pitch lines need experience, and rockfall is possible in the gorges, so wear a helmet. With us you climb with a licensed instructor and certified gear.
